Party consisting of Lindsay McCurdy and self (15 yrs 11 mths)
We went in McCurdy's car which we parked after reaching the place where the telegraph line branches away from the road, and then we set off at 4:50 am.
We made for the prominent watercourse which cuts down from the middle of the double cone. This was followed up, being very steep and precipitous in places, but no trouble was experienced and luckily, for we had no rope and only one ice-axe.
After passing through a V-shaped dip, at least it seemed like that from below, but totally different from above, we went over to the left under a bluff and just before ascending a further watercourse on the other side of this bluff, we sat down at 7:25 am and had a little bit to eat.
Continuing, we soon found ourselves at the top of this watercourse and right beneath the V in the shoulder leading up to the double cone. There was a series of ledges & watercourses leading up to the V and these we went up striking one or two tough and "nervy" spots.
Soon the V was reached and right below us, about 1,000 feet, was Lake Alta.
About this time, it began snowing slightly.
After taking a bite of some sandwiches, we continued along the top of the ridge until blocked by the precipice of the double cone - that meant precipice above and precipice below. However after some scouting a little lower, a series of ledges was found round to the right and beneath the double cone leading out to the snow couloir, which lies beneath the highest peak and the other two. These ledges were rather slippery but quite safe. We were very lucky in finding them as it eliminated a long detour which would have cost us some 2 hours.
After descending on to the couloir, we took my last year's route which lay up this couloir for some distance, and then branched off, up a steep couloir, up on to the ridge on the left. The ridge reached, it did not take us long to ascend the ledges above and
reach the summit at 10:50 am.
It was very cold on top, snowing slightly at times and the mist whirling around, so we ate, and sang some of the popular songs including "Springtime in the Rockies" (in parts) and "Tell me tonight".
In the distance to the NNE, we could see Lake Wanaka. But most of the view to the west was obscured by mist, although at times we gained a glimpse of Christina & Crosscut, and to the north, Earnslaw & Aspiring.
However at 11:45 am, we left for home down a new route which lay straight down the ridge as far as it would take us. This involved some rather steep snow work, and as there was only one ice-axe, the snow being frozen, and we were moving very fast, some difficulty was encountered.
Twice Lindsay, who was behind me, slipped and came sliding down into me. Luckily I was well stuck both times so disaster was averted. It would have meant death for us both otherwise for the snow steepened and then dropped away in a precipice.
However without further mishap but going more carefully on the snow, we went down the ridge and down beside Lake Alta which we passed on its right bank, crossing the outlet. Then we made round the bluff just above it and down to the first lake, reaching this at 1:15 pm.
The saddle behind this was ascended and then we made down the long snow-grass ridge following the sheep-fence.
Finding a likely watercourse lading down from the ridge on the left some distance form the correct spur, we thought we'd try it as a new route. Thrills followed upon thrills as this watercourse became a series of waterfalls and bluffs down which exceeding care was necessary in order to prevent being dashed on the rocks below. However we finally got down this and on to a lower spur which took us easily down to the flat and finally to the road and in a short time at 3:15 we reached the car.
Thence to Queenstown taking us half-an-hour.
Experience gained on this trip was invaluable and has served me in good stead on later rock-climbs.
---oo0oo---